Slovenian route – Winter ascent in Triglav north wall

Climb the strongest, highest and widest Slovenian Wall - the Triglav north wall in winter. It is so powerful that it is called the Wall with a capital letter. Even in winter conditions, the Slovenian route is the easiest route in the Wall, but despite its apparent lightness, it represents a real mountain guiding adventure.

The Slovenian route is the easiest route in the Triglav north wall even in winter and can be on the wish list of every guest who wants real winter mountain guiding adventures. It is rated with the upper third level of difficulty and 800m high. In extremely good conditions, the route is so flooded with snow that most of it is under it.

The Slovenian route is one of the ascents that time can not eat away. Such a pre-classic was climbed and led by our fathers and grandfathers. Among the many 'Slovenian routes' around the world, our Triglav will keep the honorable and respected championship forever. Together with Zlatorog's paths (a further route that crosses the Wall), it belongs to a special class of Triglav classics. It won’t burden you with too much difficulty, but you’ll be able to indulge in the experience. This is extremely rich in the heart of our most powerful wall, in the middle of giant pillars, in deep ravines, on charming shelves above magnificent views.

DURATION OPTION 1 (end of October until begin of April) - 2 days ascent

The road from Mojstrana to end of Vrata valley (10 km) is closed in average from begin of November until begin of April, depends of the snow and other roads conditions.

DAY 1: Mojstrana (650 m ) - winter room in Vrata valley (1015 m)

• Easy approach on the main road from village to winter room.
• Overnight stay in winter room.
• All food and beverages has to be carried by guest to the room.
• The room has a wood-burning stove, beds and blankets, where we can prepare our own meals.

DAY 2: Winter room in Vrata valley (1015 m) - Slovenian route (2300 m) - Kredarica hut (2515 m) - descend to Krma valley.

• In early morning (aprox 3.00 - 4.00) driving up to parking lot at Vrata valley
• 1,5 h - 2 h approach under the wall.
• 4 - 7 h climbing the route (exit in 2300 m).
• 1 h approach to Kredarica hut.
• 4 - 5 h descent back to Krma valley, pick up and drive back to Mojstrana.
• In case of a lot of snow, car can not reach the parking lot in the end of Krma valley so is needed extra walk down to place, where the car can make pick up.

DURATION OPTION 2 (begin of April to the end of May) - 1 day ascent

The road from Mojstrana to end of Vrata valley (10 km) is closed in average from begin of November until begin of April, depends of the snow and other roads conditions but in case of no snow and ok conditions on the road authorities usually open the road at the begin of April.

• In early morning (aprox 3.00 - 4.00) driving up to parking lot at Vrata valley
• 1,5 h - 2 h approach under the wall.
• 4 - 7 h climbing the route (exit in 2300 m).
• 1 h approach to Kredarica hut.
• 4 - 5 h descent back to Krma valley, pick up and drive back to Mojstrana.
• In case of a lot of snow, car can not reach the parking lot in the end of Krma valley so is needed extra walk down to place, where the car can make pick up.

We will start the tour in the parking lot in Mojstrana (650 m) or at Aljažev dom cottage (1015 m). It all depends on the transportability of the road in winter. We will then climb across the path across Prag to the foot of the Wall, where the entrance is.

After the crossroad, we will climb a rocky pillar, which will lead us to the junction of a more crunchy variant over Macesne. We will ascend to Bučar's wall via the famous White slabs and we will already be in Slovenian coluoir. In the early summer there is still snow here, so we will use crampons and an ice axes, and towards the end of the summer there is out of the snow. At the top of the coluoir, turn left onto the famous coluoir - Prevc exit. The exit is to the Triglav glacier (approx. 2300 m) and from there we will join the path to Kredarica hut and down to Krma valley.

In case of fatigue, we can walk the same way to Kredarica hut and sleep there and get off the next day or if you are planning to climb to the top of Triglav, sleeping in Kredarica hut is mandatory so that we can make a calm ascent the next day.

The guide is for adults. The guided tour starts by appointment, and with our transport we pick you up in front of your room, apartment or hotel. We take care of all the necessary technical equipment.